I'll put it another way: If Le Soir were in the middle of town, it would be far better known and on everyone's list for a lovely, if not quite memorable, meal. I don't mean that as a putdown. Knowing you'll enjoy dinner, confident that there will be no jarring notes and that the service will be excellent, is a gift; knowing how to deliver that is a recipe for long-lasting success. Le Soir is a find.