In the evening, the best place to join locals for dinner is the warren of culinary alleyways known as Harmonica Yokocho north of Kichijoji Station. Of all the hole-in-the-wall joints in this network of alleys, which brimmed with black-market stalls in the postwar years, the decidedly funky Tetchan is a mainstay. Designed yet again by ‘starchitect’ Kengo Kuma (see Nezu Museum and Akagi Shrine above), this shop serves grilled meat and vegetables on sticks and hearty offal stews. Wash it all down with frosty mugs of beer at the large wraparound bar, lined by stools made from melted-down translucent acrylic. Be sure to take note of the cheeky wall art downstairs, then climb the spiral staircase at the back to behold a second-floor interior plastered in jumbles of recycled LAN cables.