The other signature entrée is just right: monkfish pan-roasted with carrots, lardons, and potato purée ($23). The menu calls it a whole fish, but in fact it's a bone-in steak, decorously head- and tailless. Meaty monkfish goes perfectly with rendered bacon nuggets. None of the other main courses I tried had this unforced, natural rightness. The good pork chop ($25), for instance, lost its way with the addition of lobster medallions.