Dinners are served family-style at Louis’s. We shared our table with an oenologist (a winemaker with a college education) and his wife. When the pitcher of wine we’d ordered arrived he tasted it, pronounced it “punch”, said “harsh, tannic wines can be improved a lot this way”, reached into his pocket and pulled out a roll of cherry lifesavers. He carefully dissolved one cherry lifesaver in a little water, mixed it into the “punch”, and re-tasted it. He was right—it was very much improved.