And as I near the bustling, dusty outskirts of Agra with its street vendors, tuctucs, Vespas and sacred cows barring the main streets, I suddenly wish my trip wasn’t drawing to a close. And now I know what Rumer Godden meant: “Once you’ve felt the Indian dust you will never be free of it.” India gets under your skin and all the more so when the experience is off the beaten track.