By evening, as soft light bathes the backstreets, stylish eateries beckon. One great pick is Tempura Arai, a chic and modern tempura restaurant with a long California wine list. Also in the area is Sake Bar Otonari, a subterranean space with a serious stash of the brew, sourced from around the country and paired with a spread of ham-based items and food made at the izakaya next door.