Allen's food is well thought out and carefully made. I immediately wanted to order several dishes I was not surprised to learn had been on the menu since the day Le Soir opened, a little over a year ago. One was an adaptation of a dish Allen had already worked out at the Ritz: lobster and fennel profiterole with whipped dill cream ($12 – a good $5 cheaper than it was at the Ritz, Allen told me). Pretty, like much of Allen's food, it looks like a parchment-colored stuffed pepper in a cream-puff pastry shell. The lobster chunks are sweet-flavored, but the impressive part is the fennel braised in homemade lobster stock cooked down to a glaze.