Malivoire Courtney Gamay 2010 ($30, winery, 92 points) — This top red from Malivoire, in a year such as 2010, is a beauty. Courtney has a cult following and many feel this is the best Gamay gets in Niagara. Winemaker Shiraz Mottiar puts this single-vineyard Gamay into all-French, tight-grained oak for 14 months and it shows on the nose with a riot of spices, including mocha, clove and cinnamon, emerging from the thick array of concentrated kirsch, raspberry, plum and cassis fruits. This is textured and showy on the palate with full-on creamy red fruits all bolstered up by lavish and wonderful spices that light up the mouth all the way through the long finish. Just a beautiful and expressive red.