Many of the larger rooms possess striking, intricate ceilings of plaster or wood, each different from the others. The bathrooms, although state-of-the-art 1880s, look hor­ribly basic by today’s standards. A very narrow, very tight spiral stone staircase—my arms easily spanned its diameter—leads up to the top of a parapeted tower. To the south-east, Peggy’s Hill obstructs the view, but in all other directions you can see for miles.